Ugl and Safety

Good info bro's.... I'm learning as much as possible lately. Doing my research so I have a better chance at success with my UGL venture. I need to learn all the in's and out's before I start. If anyone has any advice I'd love to hear it!
Look on powder conversion thread.
It's really simple common bb % is 16-20
Ba % is 2 this is % of total volume of fluid or ml u are Gonna brew.

Each gram of powder takes up approx 1-2 ml depending.

If u are not good at math or figuring things out on your own, it can be tough.

There is a melting point for each hormone that u wanna heat to once mixed.

Do your math.

Use glass beaker safe with no contaminates DO NOT USE ANYTHING METAL AT ALL.

Sterilize clean with alcohol

Add powder bb% ba% powder amount necessary.

Let dissolve add heat until clear

Add gso add heat to melting point or around 145-..... degrees depending on hormone.

Let cool for specifications on filter for heat.

Use .22um nylon or pdfv

Syringe filter method best safest.

Use sterile vials with syringe filter and needle in vial 20 ga use another needle with no syringe body as vent.

I do not do this but I have been around

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Look on powder conversion thread.
It's really simple common bb % is 16-20
Ba % is 2 this is % of total volume of fluid or ml u are Gonna brew.

Each gram of powder takes up approx 1-2 ml depending.

If u are not good at math or figuring things out on your own, it can be tough.

There is a melting point for each hormone that u wanna heat to once mixed.

Do your math.

Use glass beaker safe with no contaminates DO NOT USE ANYTHING METAL AT ALL.

Sterilize clean with alcohol

Add powder bb% ba% powder amount necessary.

Let dissolve add heat until clear

Add gso add heat to melting point or around 145-..... degrees depending on hormone.

Let cool for specifications on filter for heat.

Use .22um nylon or pdfv

Syringe filter method best safest.

Use sterile vials with syringe filter and needle in vial 20 ga use another needle with no syringe body as vent.

I do not do this but I have been around

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One thing you forgot to mention which I read somewhere was make sure you add the BB first and before you add the ba take it off the stove and let it cool down as ba can evaporate. However from what I read if it is a compound that melts at around 140 to 150 degrees that is not hot enough for the BA to evaporate but when going hotter than that make sure you let it cool down before you add the BA. One thing to keep in mind is never listen to just one person as everybody thinks they know what they are doing but there is only a few people who know it all. which usually are the people who have been brewing for 10-plus years. I thought about trying it myself but after I did all the research I figured it was a bad idea.

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Thanks a lot for all that info bro! You do know your stuff from your experience.

I'm trying to gain the experience and relationship needed for a safe, secure, and quality "venture". Also, Do do you have any concrete recommendations for me on other forums or sources I can question and get information from for the in's and out's to everything from the conversations to RAW sources to end result to anonymous, interested buyers and stuff like that etc. etc.?

i hope I'm not out of line with that question. I'm new around here.
 
The pink ones I was told were Chlorohexidine rinse to antibacterial wash but sloppy work were not rinsed with distilled water and then alcohol.
Any bacterial soap can be used and it depends on condition of vials.
Phisohex or Chlorohexidine is a big WTF? When someone has surgery (like me) I had to shower with it twice and sometimes it is painted on say the chest for heart surgery,ect. I can't believe anyone who is selling this, let alone even using it themselves would do this. I have a few snippets from a PDF by Sigma that give some very good information. I am going to make it post so I'm shilling for a few *likes* and keep this up near the top. Here are two statements from Sigma.

Suggestions for Cleaning Glassware
1) CleaningWash labware as quickly as possible after use. If a thorough cleaning is not possible immediately, put glassware to soak in water.If labware is not cleaned immediately, it may become impossible to remove the residue.Most new glassware is slightly alkaline in reaction. For precision chemical tests, new glassware should be soaked several hoursin acid water (a 1% solution of hydrochloric or nitric acid) before washing.Brushes with wooden or plastic handles are recommended as they will not scratch or abrade the glass surface.

2)Glassware CleanersWhen washing, soap, detergent, or cleaning powder (with or without an abrasive) may be used. Cleaners for glassware includeAlconox®, Dural®,M&H®, Lux®, Tide® and Fab®. The water should be hot. For glassware that is exceptionally dirty, a cleaningpowder with a mild abrasive action will give more satisfactory results. The abrasive should not scratch the glass. During thewashing, all parts of the glassware should be thoroughly scrubbed with a brush. This means that a full set of brushes must beat hand-brushes to fit large and small test tubes, burets, funnels, graduates and various sizes of flasks and bottles. Motor drivenrevolving brushes are valuable when a large number of tubes or bottles are processed. Do not use cleaning brushes that are soworn that the spine hits the glass. Serious scratches may result. Scratched glass is more prone to break during experiments. Anymark in the uniform surface of glassware is a potential breaking point, especially when the piece is heated. Do not allow acidto come into contact with a piece of glassware before the detergent (or soap) is thoroughly removed. If this happens, a film ofgrease may be formed.
 
i thought you were talking about using uncapped vials at first musclemechanic. i realized you may not be when you explained how you made your oil. i was going to say you could autoclave the vials til i realized they were still capped. lol. autoclave is boiling in water for a set time.
 
i thought you were talking about using uncapped vials at first musclemechanic. i realized you may not be when you explained how you made your oil. i was going to say you could autoclave the vials til i realized they were still capped. lol. autoclave is boiling in water for a set time.
I never made any oil brother!!!
Just gave vague steps to look into to guy who posted!
I have done for myself a few times years ago like once a year. I have no trouble figuring things out and know about residues, I am a mechanic and have to practice this daily fighting issues with rebuilding pumps, gear housings shaft seals. Glass sight glasses removing out water seperators ect. But it's all instincts to most who get it.
I know guys who nail it first time.
I never asked anyone I read steps on basskiller years ago.

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I never made any oil brother!!!
Just gave vague steps to look into to guy who posted!
I have done for myself a few times years ago like once a year. I have no trouble figuring things out and know about residues, I am a mechanic and have to practice this daily fighting issues with rebuilding pumps, gear housings shaft seals. Glass sight glasses removing out water seperators ect. But it's all instincts to most who get it.
I know guys who nail it first time.
I never asked anyone I read steps on basskiller years ago.

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i understand. i've rebuilt an engine before, reworked valves, put in several engines, and done all my own mechanic work for years, til they started making them so i can't really work on them, along with getting too injured/disabled to do it. this goes all the way back to when cars/trucks had points in them. still do several things, though.

i also understood when you said you only brew for yourself, that is my plan as well. so i'm doing research right now in preparation. the one guy i think would know the most may be powderguy. then there are the recipes in the brew forum as well.
 
i understand. i've rebuilt an engine before, reworked valves, put in several engines, and done all my own mechanic work for years, til they started making them so i can't really work on them, along with getting too injured/disabled to do it. this goes all the way back to when cars/trucks had points in them. still do several things, though.

i also understood when you said you only brew for yourself, that is my plan as well. so i'm doing research right now in preparation. the one guy i think would know the most may be powderguy. then there are the recipes in the brew forum as well.
Yes brother I understand. And I did it for myself several times on just a couple of products. It's too hard with my small home right now. Lol!
But if u mechanically minded u will follow along. It's not the recipes, that part is easy it's the steps and that different powers can react different depending on acidity among other things.
But with your back ground u will not have trouble being very careful and thorough is the trick.
When I did for myself i mostly used
60ml syringe to fill mix at 47 ml and out in caulk gun tape a 50ml vial sterile to whole deal. And let it do the work slowly.
This way filtered straight into sterile vial problems won't occur or less likely!!!
56b0d5c4412e05f3a17e34bfe8cc8cd1.jpg


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Thanks a lot for all that info bro! You do know your stuff from your experience.

I'm trying to gain the experience and relationship needed for a safe, secure, and quality "venture". Also, Do do you have any concrete recommendations for me on other forums or sources I can question and get information from for the in's and out's to everything from the conversations to RAW sources to end result to anonymous, interested buyers and stuff like that etc. etc.?

i hope I'm not out of line with that question. I'm new around here.
Honestly brother I don't really know what you mean by that question. All my knowledge comes from Reading different sites on Google from back when I was thinking about making my own gear so that I did not have to order from another UGL and not know what I was getting to use for myself. I'm sure if you look on Google you will find out the same information. However I really don't know what you meant by that question maybe you can clarify it.

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Yes brother I understand. And I did it for myself several times on just a couple of products. It's too hard with my small home right now. Lol!
But if u mechanically minded u will follow along. It's not the recipes, that part is easy it's the steps and that different powers can react different depending on acidity among other things.
But with your back ground u will not have trouble being very careful and thorough is the trick.
When I did for myself i mostly used
60ml syringe to fill mix at 47 ml and out in caulk gun tape a 50ml vial sterile to whole deal. And let it do the work slowly.
This way filtered straight into sterile vial problems won't occur or less likely!!!
56b0d5c4412e05f3a17e34bfe8cc8cd1.jpg


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I completely agree with muscle mechanic this is not something you want to be getting into as a business you would be risking a lot of people's life Or safety. The only reason I would suggest even attempting it would be like he said which is for your own personal use which would be a very small amount leave it up to the big guys to make a lot and distribute it.

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I completely agree with muscle mechanic this is not something you want to be getting into as a business you would be risking a lot of people's life Or safety. The only reason I would suggest even attempting it would be like he said which is for your own personal use which would be a very small amount leave it up to the big guys to make a lot and distribute it.

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Muscle mechanic I mean it's true bro. I just don't think a lot of these guys take into consideration how much trouble they could get into making their own gear. which I'm sure is the same reason as me that you do not do it. After I looked into it years ago then I realized the penalty for it the old saying went through my mind if you can't do the time don't do the crime. so I decided to not do the crime and just find a reliable source I could buy My Cycles off of.

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I'd just boil it and refilter diluted with some EO. But I understand OP doesn't want to mess with that.
You can't boil it and add some EO because from what I've heard it is not crashed. Supposedly what happened is the guy used some soap called clorohydroxyzine which is used to sterilize rooms where they're going to do surgery and stuff like that. Supposedly somebody told him it works great and it was a good way to disinfect the bottles so even though after washing them and a bowl of water with some of that soap and then sit in them in a bowl of 90% isopropyl alcohol then letting them dry and bacon them at 350 for 45 minutes they came out looking clean. However when he put the compound in there and sent it by the time the guy received it the soap that was not visual had wore off besides of the vial because of the ba and the BB took it right off and it floated to the bottom. At least that's what I heard. So if that's the truth baking them will do nothing and filter in them will not get that soap out and you can still get a sterile infection. I was told that the guy told him to throw them in the trash and he replaced them so he's just putting it up there to warn everyone else of how things can go wrong which is what he should do, because you have so many people who read online for a few weeks and then think they can Brew with no problem which is why he posted it to let people know it's not as easy as people think and any little thing can make things go wrong. Even I told him to throw them in the trash so has multiple other people on this thread if you go back and read... Basically you should thank mm for putting this out there so that people can learn from it and try to realize that probably 90% of these ugl's do not do things properly.

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You can't boil it and add some EO because from what I've heard it is not crashed. Supposedly what happened is the guy used some soap called clorohydroxyzine which is used to sterilize rooms where they're going to do surgery and stuff like that. Supposedly somebody told him it works great and it was a good way to disinfect the bottles so even though after washing them and a bowl of water with some of that soap and then sit in them in a bowl of 90% isopropyl alcohol then letting them dry and bacon them at 350 for 45 minutes they came out looking clean. However when he put the compound in there and sent it by the time the guy received it the soap that was not visual had wore off besides of the vial because of the ba and the BB took it right off and it floated to the bottom. At least that's what I heard. So if that's the truth baking them will do nothing and filter in them will not get that soap out and you can still get a sterile infection. I was told that the guy told him to throw them in the trash and he replaced them so he's just putting it up there to warn everyone else of how things can go wrong which is what he should do, because you have so many people who read online for a few weeks and then think they can Brew with no problem which is why he posted it to let people know it's not as easy as people think and any little thing can make things go wrong. Even I told him to throw them in the trash so has multiple other people on this thread if you go back and read... Basically you should thank mm for putting this out there so that people can learn from it and try to realize that probably 90% of these ugl's do not do things properly.

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Looks like guy who posted about acidity nailed it. And how residue can be hard to remove.
If ph isn't right. It's complex.
Got me thinking about glass cups spots. And sodium carbonate i think he said.
I guess that is why Windex has ammonia
And viniger cleans glass well too.
Like our auto glass and mirrors. Lol

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Yes brother I understand. And I did it for myself several times on just a couple of products. It's too hard with my small home right now. Lol!
But if u mechanically minded u will follow along. It's not the recipes, that part is easy it's the steps and that different powers can react different depending on acidity among other things.
But with your back ground u will not have trouble being very careful and thorough is the trick.
When I did for myself i mostly used
60ml syringe to fill mix at 47 ml and out in caulk gun tape a 50ml vial sterile to whole deal. And let it do the work slowly.
This way filtered straight into sterile vial problems won't occur or less likely!!!
56b0d5c4412e05f3a17e34bfe8cc8cd1.jpg


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cool set up. i know those 60 ml syringes are a bear to draw with. so that set up looks like it'll make it easier to push oil through filter. i heard of it before, too. anything i do would be just small amounts for personal use. nothing to sell or give away, and always use universal precautions.
 
cool set up. i know those 60 ml syringes are a bear to draw with. so that set up looks like it'll make it easier to push oil through filter. i heard of it before, too. anything i do would be just small amounts for personal use. nothing to sell or give away, and always use universal precautions.
Then it's easy get sterile 100ml vials and use whatman or nylon by nylgene of millipore
Get all sterile equipment for yourself it's easy this way

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