Need help with homebrew

Does anyone know if the pore cup size really makes a difference in filter rate and/or quality? The bottletops come in different sizes like 150ml, 250ml, 500ml, and 1000ml. I originally thought like if you got a .22 micron pore filter the diameter of the filter would be all the same regardless of how many ml's the top can hold but apparently not. I haven't gone through literally each one to tell, but it seems that if you buy a 500ml you get a 90mm filter versus going with a 250ml you only get a 50mm filter.

I got the 250 because I figured, what the hell, i'm probably not going to be filtering anymore then 250ml's at one sitting. I didn't realize that if you get a 500ml the filter diameter is almost twice as big!

Logically having twice as much surface area would make for a much higher filtration rate. In all the threads on all the forums I've read through I haven't seen many people mention the actual diameter of the filter in relation to filter rate/quality. Just wondering if anyone actually pays attention to that and or noticed much of a difference. Now i'm definitely going to go with the 500ml bottletop.


Another thing, is it seems like all the complete bottle top systems have the same diameter filter, which is like 50mm. The complete system is the bottletop with the plastic receiver. However if you buy the same exact filter, but only the bottletop you get a much bigger filter diameter. fuck i'm learning a lot about filters now. Its pissing me off because I ordered a 45mm glass media bottle, and a red Nalgene nylon complete system to attach the bottle too, but it doesn't say what the neck size is! Idk if it's 33mm or 45mm.

I also ordered a 500ml nylon whataman ZAPcap, with a .73mm diameter filter and .22 micron pore, that will fit the media bottle. I'm thinking this guy is going to work well. Hopefully my Nalgene fits the media bottle. I should've just ordered the Nalgene bottletop by itself but they only sell the red nylon in a complete system. You can't seem to just buy the bottletop.The only bottletop they had by itself was the blue PES membrane.

My buddys brewing out of the Nalgene PES with awesome results though so i'll probably try that one next.
 
I know this thread is super spastic but hopefully I can provide some information that can be helpful to someone new to brewing so they don't make the same mistakes as I did. I thought I had researched, but the bottletop was the area I researched the least, and I pretty much just picked a bottletop I thought was good. Apparently theres much more too it. As I learned more, I put together this list of things I thing should be taken into account when you start brewing for the first time and order a bottletop filter. I wish I had this information earlier.

When getting a bottletop, you have to consider:

-The brand: Nalgene, Whataman, Autofill, Millipore
-Getting specifically the bottletop and not the complete system (the complete system comes with a polystyrene receiver bottle which can't be used)
-Getting a glass media bottle to attach to the bottletop.
-Neck size of both the bottletop and media bottle. Either 33mm or 45mm. It looks like some actually fit both though like the Whataman ZAPcap.
-Pore size. Either .22micron or .45 (45 gets basically all bacteria and contaminants out, however there are some viruses small enough to pass through)
-.22 micron apparently gets all forms of bacteria and viruses, but it will be a bit slower then .22. Both are acceptable.
-Size of the actual bottle top which can also correlate to the diameter of the filter.
-Filter membrane type, Nylon, PES, PVDF (It seems like all can work, some people just have better opinions on certain ones. Nylon seems to be very popular, but I know PES can work too. Something to consider is they will have different max temperatures in which the heated brew can be added. Caution must be taken as to not melt the filter.


If anyone can add more specific information about membrane types, like precisely the differences between them all and whats more suitable for brewing feel free too.

Also, if possible get a hand pump that has a gauge. It definitely would help, although still not necessary.
 
I read u need to get the red color code. Other colors have a plastic piece inside filter membrane that will melt with solvents.
Other filter is ptfe type.
Also read that PVDF & PTFE are best but nylon with work.
I used PES before it had to be because I filtered hot like 140'F but wasn't bottle top.
Thread helped me cause I am ordering bottle top myself. I definitely got off my ass and looked can't find correct whatman. So will go with others.
 
I read u need to get the red color code. Other colors have a plastic piece inside filter membrane that will melt with solvents.
Other filter is ptfe type.
Also read that PVDF & PTFE are best but nylon with work.
I used PES before it had to be because I filtered hot like 140'F but wasn't bottle top.
Thread helped me cause I am ordering bottle top myself. I definitely got off my ass and looked can't find correct whatman. So will go with others.

If you havent already check out medlabsupply.com

Not sure what you mean by red color code? The only one thats red is the nylon nalgene, which is also the firet one i used.
 
The blue ones are made of materials that cannot handle solvents. The color code is a label the colors difference in samples and which can be used in what for labs. Same with bottles and caps. These are all codes that may contain different materials that can handle certain things.
It's an easy way u can know the safety and resistance just by color. This is what I have found out. Yellow is also safe in Millipore, safe for ourent solvents. Or u can just be sure they contain right membrane and that the body is made of prolypropylene and is going in glass bottle.
 
I will use medlab, I will post type used. I will use calk gun method 3 at time into 50 ml bottles. Have 3 kinds to filter so. 60 ml syringe fills to like 43 ml at time to fit in caulk gun. I will hang guns by rear pull out piece and connect bottles to gun with a rod and zip ties. Filters will be between if u know what I mean. I have Springs to load so don't need to crank often at all.
Just goes thru filter straight into sterile vail sealed. And nothing to eat up. Either using pvdf or ptfe.
 
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